Have you ever been out shopping and wondered if an item you were looking at was vintage or is there something in your closet that has you curious?  Well, here are a few useful tips and tricks to help you out next time or to help you with that mystery item hanging up!

Sizing

Over the past few decades ladies’ fashion has been flooded what is called “vanity sizing”.  This is the process to make women feel slimmer and that has created the double zero and the negative sizes that now exist.  However, when shopping for vintage, don’t be shocked when a size 10 or 14 fits you! How is that possible…take these two case studies:

Please notice, that both of these dresses have a 28 inch (14 x 2) waist as you can see with the tape measure.  The dress on the left is a new dress, with a size 4 tag, however the vintage dress on the right is a size 10.

Zippers

Today, most zippers, except for the pull tab, are made of plastic and the teeth are very small.  Additionally, the pulls are often eye-shaped or extremely thin.  This is not the case with vintage.

On the new dress up top, the zipper is made of plastic (often the plastic is the same color as the dress) and the teeth are small.  On the vintage dress, it is a full metal zipper, with a flat, larger pull and larger teeth.  Additionally, the zipper has been painted to match the color of the dress.  You will notice paint chips on vintage clothing from the piece being worn.

Fabric

Fabric is also very important.  Most 1940s and 50s items are made or cotton, wool or linen.  It wasn’t until the 1960s and 70s that polyester became common.  Additionally, if a dress has a lot of spring in the fabric it is in all likelihood that it is new.  Spandex was not invented until 1959 and was not commonly used until the 1970s when the disco and hot pants craze hit.  Additionally, elastic was not often used in waists.  You’ll find a handful of 1960s and 70s dresses with elastic, but usually elastic waists means it is from the 80s or later.

Labels & Where It Was Made

Most vintage labels are stitched, and not screen printed.  Additionally, size labels are often paper.  Although, you will notice that expensive brands today still use stitched labels.  Most of America’s clothing in the mid-20th century was made right here, in America.  So a “Made in the U.S.A.” label is wonderful to have.  Additionally, a “Made in China/Philippines/Mexico/etc.” label is usually a dead giveaway that the item is new.  However, there are some vintage items made in China, however these items did not read “China” but instead “Hong Kong” or “The British Republic of Hong Kong”.  Even better to help in dating an item is an International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union label.  If you have a piece with such a label, check out this useful guide by an eBay’er.

I hope this was of use!

What a week it’s been.  I had several papers due, and have been packing a bit. Only 15 more days until graduation!  Meanwhile, last week I purchased a vintage sofa from Joe Klem in Coburg, and boy was it dusty and dirty! It certainly needed some TLC, and I was more than willing.  So this is how I spent my Saturday!

See what I had to start with?  Seems a bit horrifying?  It’s really not.  And here’s why and how you can do it too next time you find something just as dirty!  First off, if you have an air compressor, get that sucker out and shoot air all over the piece.  It’ll blow a lot of the dirt that is just sitting on top off.  Then, get a stick of some sort (we had some PVC pipe on hand) and beat the cushions.  It’ll lift a lot of the dirt out.  Then vacuum!  And I mean vacuum!  Do it a couple of times.  Note: a Shop-Vac is a much better vacuum to use, however ours was currently loaned to a friend.

Next get yourself some Tuff Stuff.   Seriously. This spray on cleansing foam works miracles!  Spray the Tuff Stuff on, then get a bucket of water and a rag, get the rag wet, ring it out, and scrub the area you Tuff Stuff’ed.  Do this all over the upholstery, continually rinsing your rag.  When it gets difficult to see the bottom of the bucket, it’s time to change the water.

Once you’ve got it all clean, and you should be able to feel the difference, take a good look at it.  For this piece, it had a bad wear mark on the corner, which is really common…So, what did we do?  We took a green Sharpie to it.  I put on a few lines, then my dad took a damp rag and wiped it.

And just a few hours later we finished!  I must say, I’m rather proud of the piece.  I really enjoy working on vintage furniture.  There is something about taking an old, forgotten piece, turning it around and making it shine, whether it’s a piece like this, or stripping and refinishing a piece of Hey-Wake.  As for the buttons, half were missing, and I really wanted to break up the green, so we bought some tan fabric (at EconoSales!), and am having Joe make ‘em.  Then I’m making panel insets of the same fabric to go along the edge of the arms.  I can’t wait to get this into our new place in Portland!

Follow the jump-cut for a quick step-by-step and materials list.

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I’m a big fan of Atomic Ranch magazine.  Based in Portland, the magazine focuses on mid-century homes and the people who live in them.  It also highlights companies that cater to those living the “Atomic Lifestyle”.  However, the magazine does not focus on people who live the life, but don’t own the home, and it does not stress the importance of buying from antique shops.  These days many, many pieces of modern furniture can be purchased brand new.  I can’t tell you how many times I see new Noguchi tables in Atomic Ranch spreads. Sure, it’s an awesome table, but, a lot of people have them.  Design within Reach is a store that caters to those too lazy to hunt for unique items and great deals at shops and shows.  There, you can buy coffee tables for hundreds of dollars, and couches for thousands.  It’s silly, and continues to perpetuate the idea that living mid-century means you have to have lots of dough, and I’m here to tell you that is not the case.  Additionally, buying vintage means you’re more likely to be unique.  I came from a family of collectors and restorers, so I knew where to go and how to do restoration work.  When I decided that the 50s and 60s were my niche, I knew I chose an expensive era, especially since I adored the modern works of Eames and Saarinen, and the line of furniture by Heywood Wakefield.  So, how did I furnish an entire apartment in mid-century furniture without breaking the bank?  How can you do it too?  Here are some tips…

1. Have no shame

The mid-century market is rather yuppy-ish with men in thick-rim glasses, black turtlenecks and matchstick thin women in heels that could kill you.  They often turn up their noses to places like Goodwill and St. Vincent de Paul and that garage sale down the street, so these places become your friend.  You’ll find great deals on furniture, lamps, chairs, and just about anything and everything.  I often spend a whole day “making the rounds” hitting each thrift store and scoring.

2. Don’t be afraid to barter

While at antique shows, flea markets, or garage sales, remember that the price tag may not be what you have to pay.  Most people are willing to take down the price at least ten percent.  If it’s $8.00, ask $5.00.  Sometimes if you buy more than one item, people may be more willing to deal.  Just ask “Would you take…” if you have a price in mind, or ask “What’s the best you can do on this?” In this economy, sure, people want money, but they’re also more willing to sell and less likely to hold out for someone who may pay more.

3. If it isn’t perfect, don’t worry

When I bought my first Hey-Wake piece, it was covered in three layers of paint, but I only paid about $15.00 for it (I bought it along with a lettermans jacket, some records, a magazine and some 8-tracks for $35.00).  So if the price is dirt cheap, but it’s in sad shape, don’t worry.  Paint can be removed.  If you find a wood piece that has some rings in it, don’t worry either.  If you happen to have an old car battery laying around, pop open those caps and take a paintbrush, dip it in the acid and gingerly apply it to the ring, and then wipe it off, repeat if necessary.  Be careful because the acid will bleach the wood.  And if the rings don’t come all the way out, it’s not a big deal because you’re going to put stuff on it anyway.

4. Reupholstery is spendy…sometimes

So you’ve found the perfect chair…but it’s in a horrible fabric…or the fabric has some rips in it.  First off, ask yourself, how much is the item?  Is it cheap? Secondly, do you have someone you know who can do the work?  If it’s cheap, and you have someone in mind, give them a call, get an estimate.  Sometimes having something reupholstered costs a fortune.  If you need that couch or chair, a way to save money is to buy the fabric yourself.  This way, the upholster doesn’t have to make a call, and there’s no shipping costs, plus you know exactly what you’re getting.  If you’re in Oregon, I recommend Econo Sales in Springfield to purchase fabric, and Joe Klem in Coburg to do your work.  He’s done all of the stuff I’ve been incapable of doing, additionally, he’s will to trade since he runs an antique shop along with an upholstery shop. For my sofa, I traded my old European style dresser for the labor.  If it’s only a dining chair seat, that can be done yourself with some fabric and a staple gun. Like I did here.

Now that you’ve armed yourself with some tips, go get yourself some deals!

For me, old suitcases have always had an instant feeling of nostalgia about them.  They also have great style – much more style than any suitcase of today.  Those suitcases all look the same.  Aside from being travel accessories, old suitcases make for great storage of scrapbooking materials, and when stacked, they create tables (hard, flat – non beveled suitcases are the ones you want).  If you’re in the market for an old suitcase, I suggest you start haunting your local Goodwill or St. Vincent de Paul stores.  They crop up now and again, but sell quickly, so go often!  Good size ones range in price from $9.99 to $7.99.  Smaller suitcases and train cases usually cost $4.99.  I use one of my train cases as a jewelry box and let it sit open on my vanity.  If you are going to be using an old suitcase for actual travel (as I do) make sure you look inside.  I don’t suggest purchasing one with stains or an extremely bad smell.  However, if you merely want to use it to create an end table, condition inside is not of importance.

Once you’ve found your suitcase, it is for sure going to be dirty, there’s going to be about 40 plus years of dirt and grime on it!  So, how to get rid of that?  First of all, buy yourself a can of Tuff Stuff, available at most stores in the automotive aisle, since it’s marketed as a car upholstery cleaner, but works on just about everything and it’s UH-MAZING!  It’ll remove deep down dirt, as well as certain scuff marks.  Next, get yourself a small scrub brush or toothbrush and a roll of paper towels.  Take your suitcase outside and spray a section of it with the Tuff Stuff (it’ll foam up once on the surface), and then take your scrub brush to it, I find circular motions, followed by up and down motions work best.  Once scrubbed, wipe the area with a paper towel, and repeat the process on each side.  Don’t mind hardware, Tuff Stuff won’t do anything to it.  Once done, take a damp rag to the outside of the suitcase.  If you find there is still dirt lifting out, repeat the Tuff Stuff process.

Once cleaned on the outside, open your suitcase and gently spray Lysol inside – do not saturate the inside.  In most cases Lysol will not leave any stain or mark that it was there, and will lightly clean the inside and let your suitcase air out for awhile outside.  I have known people to purchase odor remover products for shoes and used them in order to rid the suitcase of that musty smell.  Using an old suitcase as your traveling suitcase is really helpful because your suitcase will stand out and be easier to find when you travel.  Now you’re set to either travel in style or to have an innovative end table!

In April, I celebrated my 21st birthday.  I have much admired the idealistic lounge image produced by the Rat Pack, and the pictures from Ultra-Lounge liner notes.  Having purchased a rather awesome ice bucket (pictures on my flickr!), I have since wanted to put a bar in my pad to show it off and have something to serve drinks from when I have parties, however, the apartment isn’t all that large, leaving little room to create such.  I spent a day running around to the various Goodwills, Saint Vincent de Pauls, and even TJ Maxx and Target.   When at Target, I came across a $49.99 kitchen cart, seen on the left.  While more than I wanted to spend, I felt it was perfect in size, and with a few customizations, it would be just what I wanted.

Knowing I wanted to cover up the unsightly black metal, I went to Jo Ann Fabrics and purchased a yard of black vinyl (vinyl is easy to clean in case of a party foul) and some Velcro (for easy removal) and got to work.  First, I measured how long the vinyl had to hang, marked it, then cut it – I used an X-acto knife and ruler, instead of scissors.  I hot glued the soft side of the Velcro to the edge of the wood block.  I then glued the opposite piece of Velcro to the cleaner cut edge of the vinyl.  This gave the bar a cleaner, more lounge-y look.  This kitchen cart came with metal grate shelves, which aren’t very nice when it comes to storing bar ware and the like.  Luckily enough, I had some panes of glass stored in the closet, and I had the Craft Center on my college campus cut them down to the sizes I needed to give me a smooth surface to store items.

I then sketched out a few designs for a name I wanted for the bar.  I eventually settled on “Atomic Lounge” with a boomerang image, martini and with the atom image as the olive in the martini, as well as the “o” in “Atomic”.  I settled on creating a computer image of my design in Photoshop, instead of hand painting it or something.  I’ll admit, I am not all that computer savvy, and I am extremely intimidated by Photoshop.  Thankfully, my boyfriend (who did this entire website) is a computer wizz, and being a photographer and graphic designer, he has a way with Photoshop.  Using his Wacom tablet, he whipped out my sketch in the computer, and printed it out on sturdy paper and then laminated it.  I then used the remaining piece of Velcro to attach the sign to the vinyl.  And TA-DA there you have it, your very own mini bar fit for any swanky affair you may have for you and your fellow lounge lizards and pretty pin-ups!  Plus, it easily tucks away for easy storage.

Materials List

If you wish to create what I did, here is a complete list of items you will need…

• Kitchen cart, Target, $49.99
• One yard of black vinyl, Jo Ann Fabrics, $12.99
• Two packs of black Velcro, Jo Ann Fabrics, $0.99 each
• Hot glue gun
• X-acto knife
• Ruler
• Marker

Enjoy, and please remember, drink responsibly!