Tag Archives: vintage inspired

A Note on Vintage Repro

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Thanks for all of your kind words in my last post.  I’m still sniffly, but I certainly feel like I’m on the up and up and was able to take just two snaps for this post.

Over the time I’ve had this blog I have gotten a lot of questions about plus-size vintage clothing.  So many people complain that vintage is all tiny.  And I’m here to say it’s not.  While plus size vintage may be harder to come by, it isn’t non-existent.  I don’t know about you, but I can flip through plenty of old photos and see some plus size gals – not everyone was tiny back then. However, since it is harder to come by, many retro loving plus size gals turn to vintage repro to fill their closets and I then get questions on which vintage repro/vintage inspired brand is the best.  But that’s a bit of a hard question to answer…until now.  So buckle up and get ready for discussion of vintage repro.

The truth of the matter is I rarely buy new (vintage repro or otherwise) and this is for a combination of reasons. There are a handful of items I do buy from vintage repro sites, because I can’t find very much of certain items in the vintage world, like pants for example. In all honesty I just don’t look at vintage repro sites often because I don’t want or need to.  I like the thrill of the hunt.  I like giving my money to a local shop.  I like having unique items.  I like the quality of real vintage.  And I like sewing my own clothes.  So this leaves me with very little experience in the vintage repro world…until now.  Recently I have been lucky enough to stumble onto some vintage repro second hand and can now give my personal opinion on it.

Stop Staring was one of the first large vintage repro companies to hit the market. Riding the Neo-Swing wave, Stop Staring was established in 1997 and offers up mostly dresses with a tiny selection of separates. All garments are designed by a female designer who wants to give women the chance to embrace their inner femme fatale by providing figure flattering and curve hugging garments.

Some Stop Staring dresses have stretch to their fabric, while others do not.  This dress has an insane amount of stretch to it.  Which I personally don’t care for since it often creates odd bunches (which you can see in the above image) that you’re constantly tugging it back down.  But I like their styles, the fact the garments have back zippers and I also love that their garments are made in the USA.

One brand that has really picked up popularity is Trashy Diva.  I was introduced to the brand by fellow blogger The Fiercest Lilliputian who has a few of their dresses and adores them.  I really loved many of their patterns and the cuts were amazing! Seriously, some of their dresses could be dead ringers for the real deal.  But most of their garments have side zippers (seriously, I could do a whole post on my side zipper problem).  So that and the price forced me to turn away from their items.  But recently I scored one of their dresses for less than half of what it cost new.

When I tried the dress on I was really pleasantly surprised by their side zipper.  Unlike most side zippers that stop an inch or so before the armpit, Trashy Diva zippers go all the through to the sleeve!  This makes the dress ten times easier to get on and off, and doesn’t strain the fabric like other side zipper garments.  (This strain often results in the zipper being pulled loose from the garment and/or causing the fabric to sheer.)

Some of Trashy Diva’s dresses have stretch, others do not, such as this one which is 100% rayon.  And some have linings, but some don’t.  For me, I personally don’t care for linings with the exception of a coat.  I much prefer to wear slips than deal with linings.

I do want to make note of one quality thing that I encountered.  Even though I did buy my Trashy Diva dress second hand, it still had its original tags and replacement button attached.  So I believe the dress was unworn.  However, I noticed that the fabric on the fabric covered buckle was already beginning to show wear.

Second hand or not, I really don’t feel like this should be happening yet and it’s disappointing.  But honestly I don’t care too much for the belt.  Partially because it’s not all that flattering due to the fact that even on the tightest setting the belt was still loose.  Also, the light fabric is applied to a black belt, which causes the whole belt to be a shade darker than the rest of the garment.  I may find myself pairing this dress with a different belt or no belt at all, it looks just dandy without.  With regards to manufacturing location, Trashy Diva garments are made in China.

I found both the Stop Staring and the Trashy Diva dresses to be immensely comfortable as well.  Especially the Trashy Diva one, which was lightweight and soft.  And the stretch in the Stop Staring made it easy to move in.

Furthermore, I find that vintage repro fills a nice, specific niche in my wardrobe – travel.  When traveling you run the risk of losing or ruining your garments. It’s just a sad fact. And I would much rather lose a new garment, that may be easily replaced, as opposed to a vintage, possible one-of-a-kind garment.

Other vintage inspired companies that I have highlighted are Freddies of Pinewood, eShakti (experiences viewable here and here) Collectif and more recently Bettie Page Clothing.

There are so many more vintage repro and vintage inspired companies out there. Here is a small list for you to check out.  I have noted where the garments are made for the companies that I was able to find that information.

Heyday – Made in the UK and New Zealand
Vivian of Holloway
Pin-up Girl Clothing
Boo Boo Kity Couture – Handmade in the UK
Jitterbuggin’ Clothing – Handmade in Portland, Oregon
Shabby Apple
Nicole Katherine
NudeeDudee – Made in Los Angeles, California
Bernie Dexter – Made in the USA

As always, any future vintage repro/vintage inspired garments that I purchase or collaborate with I’ll share my experiences with you.  But I do want to note, I am by no means a clothing quality expert.  I’ve never peeked into a designer garment to look at the stitching, and I don’t go into high-end shops and turn garments inside out.  But I can feel the difference between fabrics and tug at seams and give it my best, but sometimes the true quality of a garment isn’t shown until it’s worn and washed the couple of times, and that’s another reason I love real vintage – it’s been around the block a few times and holding on strong.

Bettie Page Comes to PDX!

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Ah, Bettie Page. The queen of pin-ups. Nearly anyone in the vintage scene has heard of the dark haired beauty who raised eyebrows in the 1950s with her scantily clad and fetish photos.  She’s become a pop icon, with songs mentioning her and even a few written about her.  She’s been immortalized in photographs, graphic work and illustrations (most notably by Olivia) and most recently in a clothing line.

For sometime Bettie Page Clothing was only available at the first Bettie Page store which opened in, where else? Vegas, baby! As well as various “alternative” shops.  I bought my first Bettie Page piece at a roller derby store!  However, many of the specialty shops only carried a handful of items, instead of the whole collection.  Which left you to purchase on-line.  But in recent years, the company has increased its brick-and-mortar presence across the country.  The latest shop? My current city, Portland!

I recently went in and immediately fell in love.  Pink walls. Leopard print. Pictures of Bettie herself. Not to mention racks upon racks of vintage inspired garments! What’s not to love?

I was able to chat with the store manager, Gwen, a fellow feisty redhead.  “It’s an awesome company.  I love shopping here and I love working here even more,” says Gwen.  When asked what she loves about the clothing itself, Gwen responded with “It’s the most flattering!  It’s feminine, sexy, but not vulgar.”   She also notes that the line is not just for the rockabilly crowd, “Retro [fashion] has a great modesty to it, it translates to the workplace to dinner with your mother-in-law.”  Gwen emphasized that the clothing is about embracing your body and your femininity. “The dresses are designed by a woman, Tatyana, and it shows.”  The dress are all about curves and Gwen says “we’re very body positive here.  It’s okay to be sexy.”

While most of my wardrobe is real vintage and I rarely buy new, I understand that vintage inspired has its place in the vintage fashion world.  First of all, new stuff is available in a range of sizes, offering up the answer to the gals who complain that they can never find vintage in their size.  The Bettie Page line offers sizes XXS to 4X, so you’re bound to find your size.  “I love the range,” says Gwen of the sizing, “We offer a lot of the hard-to-fit sizes, from real petite to the plus size women.”  Of the plus-sizes, Gwen mentioned how in many stores, the plus size garments are pushed into almost of corner of shame that offer very little options in both style and in being body positive, “People come in asking for our ‘Plus Size Corner’ and I have to say ‘It’s all over.’”

Additionally, some items are just too difficult to find vintage, such as blouses and most often of all, pants!  So this is where lines such as Bettie Page come in quite handy.  Furthermore, I find that vintage repro is perfect for traveling and events that run risk of major party fouls.  Because, let’s face it, if you are forced to lose or ruin a dress, you’d much rather it be a new dress that can be easily replaced than a unique, one-of-a-kind vintage garment!

What makes shopping at a Bettie Page store different than shopping on-line?  Gwen explains that it’s just “trying it on!”  Everyone is shaped differently, and some of us may have a little more in some areas and maybe a little less in others, and these things “are not accounted for in a size chart.”  An important thing to note is that the sizing of the garments can vary from garment to garment.  Some garments are made of fabric that include a lot of stretch, while others include no stretch at all, but the garments feel well made, and are comfortable.  Also, there is just the experience! What gal doesn’t want to stand in front of a three-way mirror in a shop of pink walls, pin-ups and leopard print?  “There’s a couch of the men to sit on and look at their ladies, and they love it!”  And how true is that? You can’t exactly get your man’s opinion on something on you from the internet!  Also you don’t have a wonderful staff doting on you! That size not working out for you? Let one of the lovely sales staff help you out and pick up the next size up or down for you!  “We’re here for them so they can look fabulous.”

As for myself, I bought this adorable jumper! A swimsuit for my trip to Palm Springs in a few weeks, and two of their bow belts! And Portland store bonus: They have cute Bettie Page Clothing reusable totes!

The Portland Bettie Page Clothing store is located at 818 SW Broadway in the heart of downtown Portland, less than a block from Pioneer Courthouse Square.

“Made In…” Disclosure
Bettie Page garments are made in China.

Another eShakti Experience

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Not too long ago, I was contacted by eShakti again to try out something from their new Spring/Summer collection. And, oh, what a collection it is! I certainly had a hard time selecting something!  Ultimately I chose this darling heart blouse…

Unlike last time, where I stuck with a standard garment, this go-round I opted for custom measurements, which proved to be much more successful!  In case you’re unfamiliar with eShakti, here’s the rundown… The company offers wonderful garments, many of which will fall right in line with any vintage lovers wardrobe.  Additionally, all of their garments have customization options.  Some are just for custom measurements. Yes, you can get a dress tailored to your exact measurements! And for only an additional cost of $7.50!  Although, through February 28th (tomorrow!), customization is free!  Other custom options the option of taking away embroidery and embellishments.  So if you really liked the cut and color of my top, but aren’t keen on the hearts, you could order it without!  My favorite options by far are the skirt and sleeve options.  While I rarely go to the mall, I have on occasion passed by window displays and said “Gosh, that’s a darling dress, shame about the skirt length though.”  Well, at eShakti you can order a dress tailored to your liking!  Whether it’s short or long, you’ll find something to suit who you are.

Each garment page offers up the specs for the garment, including zipper location, material, care instructions, and other details.  Where the garment is made, however, is not included.  So, a little “Made In…” disclosure, this blouse was made in India.

Have a special occasion coming up? Or maybe a bride seeking affordable, but stylish bridesmaid dresses that your bridesmaids will want to wear again and again? Then check out their Bridesmaids collection.  Heck, there are dresses in this collection I would buy for everyday wear!

Another thing I love is the size range.  One thing I hear a lot is that vintage is only for skinny gals.  While that isn’t true, I will admit that vintage can be difficult to find for those with a waist over 32 inches.  This is where websites such as eShakti are perfect.  Their garments take cues from the fashions of the past, thus offering up retro delights perfect for swing dances to car shows for women of any shape.  Whether you’re a petite pixie or a full figured femme fatal, eShakti can provide.  Their standard garments go up to a size 6X or 36W, and their custom measurements can accommodate any size.

Still unsure?  First take a peek at their Real Fashion spread that has photos of people who have purchased some of their garments.  Then, when you find something you like, use the promo code TMCREDHED to get 20% off your purchase!!  How swell is that?  But hurry! The offer expires March 10th!  UPDATE! I heard that the coupon code did not work for a few days!  I am deeply sorry! eShakti has extended the coupon code to March 20th.

Outfit
Blouse: Courtesy of eShakti.  Thank you very much!
Skirt: Bombshell Vintage, Portland
Bangles & Earrings: Who knows?
1930s Kiss Timer Brooch: Gift
1940s Shoes: Pattie Smith West, Portland

Miss L Fire Returns

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The other day found me out and about with my friend Angelica on the hunt for the final touches to our outfits for the upcoming Fur & Feathers Luncheon and we just happened upon Imelda’s on Hawthorne who was just happening to have a sale…so, yep, I came home with a new pair of shoes…another pair by Miss L Fire…

I had drooled over these back in September when I first discovered the brand Miss L Fire and purchased these beauties.  I was seriously tempted to purchase these when they first came onto the market and miraculously I was able to wait until they went on sale.  I can’t wait to see what their Spring/Summer line looks like this year! And once again, I can’t recommend Miss L Fire shoes enough! They are made of leather and fit in perfectly with any vintage lover’s wardrobe!

Outfit
Bakelite Earrings: Antique Alley, Portland
Mexican Themed Brooches: Expo
Mexican Tourist Jacket: Elsewhere Vintage, Orange, California
Sweater: Garb-Oh Vintage
Skirt: Don’t recall at this time…
Tights: Nordstorm
Shoes: “Bonnie” by Miss L Fire, Imelda’s, Portland

The BBR: What Katie Did Padded Bullet Bra

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Previously on my new series The Bullet Bra Revue, I reviewed What Katie Did’s Maitresse bra. Today I bring you another bra by What Katie Did, the Padded Bullet Bra.

Unlike the Maitresse, which is simply fabric that has been stitched to give support and shape, the Padded Bullet Bra is exactly as it sounds. This bra actually has foam support and shape (akin to modern bras) to create a very pointed silhouette that stays perky.

One thing that should be said about the page for the Padded Bullet Bra is that WKD does not give you a side profile, so you really do not get a perfect understanding of just how pointy the Padded Bullet Bra really is. Well, here ya go!

I feel like I should be in an Ed Wood movie or something!  But I love it! The light padding in this bra keeps the pointed, bullet shape without need for the bullet bra pads that some gals may need if wearing the Maitresse and it will not have that “deflated” look that other bloggers have complained about with other bullet bras.  For the most part, this bra is for 1950s attire, but some early 1960s garb may require something this pointed.

I found the bra to be comfortable and had a wonderful structured and secure feeling while wearing.  Not to mention it made my attitude change a little too. I felt like a character out of John Waters’ film Cry-Baby, and I could claim “our bazooms are our weapons!”

Also like the Maitresse, my traditional fit did not work, and I purchased a cup size up.  Additionally, this is one of the bras I purchased at The Foundation, and was able to try the bra on in person.

The Padded Bullet Bra is $55.00, made in India and of polyester with elastic straps, elastic near the hook and eyes and an elastic panel along the bottom of the front triangular cut out.

More Bullet Bra Revues
The Maitresse by What Katie Did
The Fully Support by Exquisite Form
The CC09 Bra by What Katie Did

The BBR: What Katie Did Maitresse

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Welcome to my new series The Bullet Bra Revue! Awhile ago, I wrote saying that the bullet bra is a “vintage must have”.  And offered up a handful of places to purchase bullet bras.  But what I did not supply were my personal reviews on the bras currently out there on the market.  Starting today I will be reviewing various bullet bras and offering up my personal experience with the garments, hoping to help you fellow vintage lovers make the best possible purchase to fit your wardrobe and budget. Today’s bullet bra is the What Katie Did Maitresse Bullet Bra.

I would like to note that I purchased this bra from The Foundation, not through What Katie Did’s website.  The first thing I noticed about the Maitresse bra was how similar it was to a vintage 1950s bullet bra I already owned. With its circular stitching and triangular cut out near the band, the Maitresse is almost a dead ringer for a period bra.

To hammer home the difference between a modern bra, and the Maitresse bra, I have gone with a sweater set (after all, we all love a sweater gal!)

You will notice that my breasts are elevated, which is what is so key to a period correct foundation when wearing vintage. Most garments from the 1940s through the 1960s were made with bullet bras in mind, thus bust darts are higher, and overall construction is suited to a bullet shape.  This bra is more suited to a late/New Look 1940s through 1950s garment, but could be worn with some 1960s garments, and therefore I think the most versatile bra for a vintage wardrobe.

I know some fellow vintage bloggers have had some complaints, finding the area on the top of the bust to be wavy and loose, having a “deflated” look. I however did not encounter this problem. There are two possible solutions to this.  The first is that the bra was not put on properly.  Bullet bras need to be put on bending over, and allowing your breasts to fall into the cups. You can also put on the bra, and then bend over, gently shaking your breasts into place.  Or it could be that you need bullet bra pads. These pads fill in the bra for you, and remain stiff and in place. What Katie Did also sells these.

Regarding sizing, I found the What Katie Did bras to run small.  I traditionally wear a 34C, and found the 34Cs to run a tad tight. I then tried on a 34D and it was much more comfortable.  At home, I compared my vintage 1950s 34C bullet bra and found the cups to be within two millimeters of the same size.  I recommend ordering a cup size up.

Overall, I am very, very happy with my Maitresse bra, and will be ordering at least one more in the future.

The Maitresse bra is $55.00, made in India and of polyester with elastic straps (which I’m personally not a fan of), elastic near the hook and eyes and an elastic panel along the bottom of the triangular cut out.

More Bullet Bra Revues
The Padded Bullet Bra by What Katie Did
The Fully Support by Exquisite Form
The CC09 Bra by What Katie Did

The Foundation

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Recently my dear friend Angelica introduced me to what has become one of my new favorite shops in town. The Foundation: From Billie to Bettie. It’s a little shop located at 4831 SE Davision here in Portland that sells everything (and more) that I included in my Vintage Must Have Foundations Series (Read more on bullet bras, girdles, seamed stockings, slips, and crinolines).

If you’re a Portland gal who has ever been hesitant to purchase a bullet bra off the internet, then The Foundation is the place to go! Not only does the shop carry the What Katie Did bras, but a selection of new-old stock 1960s bras, all in addition to more modern bras.  When I walked in I felt like a kid in a candy store. Corsets, garters, stockings, girdles, bras, crinolines! Even pasties and tiny burlesque hats!  There is a wide array of shape-wear available, including vintage inspired Rago girdles.  There is also a large selection of stockings, crinolines of varying lengths, and steel boned corsets! Since I’ve been dying to own a steel boned corset since I was a freshman in high school, I went ahead and purchased one, along with a few bras.

And for those of you who have ever wanted to bring out your inner pin-up girl, shop owner, Tami has teamed up with Tammy Kravitz, a photographer who does classic boudoir and pin-up photos in their portrait studio.

Proprietress Tami is a wonderful gal who doesn’t just cater to the specialty market of bullet bras and corsets, but she also sells beautiful contemporary slips, sleepwear sets and panties. So there’s something for the vintage gal as well as the modern woman.  She was also very nice and patient with me when I was trying on my corset. She explained the best way to loosen the laces, how to properly fasten the front, and tighten the back.  The Foundation is open Wednesday through Sunday, twelve to seven.

What this all brings me to is a new series I am starting on bullet bras.  There are a few out there, and most with mixed reviews, so I figured I’d throw in my two-cents on various ones on the market.  So tune into tomorrow for the first in my new Bullet Bra Review Series!