There would be no better place than Nashville for the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. Originally opening April 1, 1967 along Music Row, it moved to downtown Nashville in 2001, and has only expanded from there. Today the history of country music unfolds across 350,000 square feet and three floors.

The museum showcases how country music is truly American, a product the melting pot of cultures, specifically, that of European immigrants and enslaved West Africans. Country has a very specific sound, often blending the fiddle and mandolin brought over from European immigrants with the banjo that emerged from Africa. As America moved west, so did country music, embracing Spanish and Mexican culture and sounds.

With a focus on music, there are of course many musical instruments on display. Some of my favorites were Sara Carter’s autoharp, Bonnie Dodd’s steel guitar, a guitar belonging to Red Foley, a beautifully detailed fiddle from Bob Wills, a pair of guitars belonging to the Everly Brothers, one of Wanda Jackson’s guitars, and Earl Scrugg’s banjo that played the iconic tune “Foggy Mountain Breakdown” among others.

Garments worn on stage by musicians and entertainers alike make up another large portion of the items on display. The Opry’s Minnie Pearl, inducted into the Hall of Fame in 1975, is honored with her iconic hat with price tag and one of her dresses. Many garments feature glittering rhinestones, and were made by North Hollywood tailor, Nudie Cohn. An immigrant from Ukraine, Nudie first started by making showgirl attire in New York City, where he developed a fondness for rhinestones. When he moved west he transitioned to western wear. Inspired by the fine embroidery of eastern European clothing and his previous work in showgirl costumes, he combined the two becoming an icon, creating some of the most outrageous and wonderful stage costumes for country’s top talent. Today a sign from his shop, sewing machine, and many of his creations are on display.

Scattered are some handwritten lyrics, the best of which was Hank Williams’ lyrics for “I Saw the Light.” I was also thrilled to see lyrics from newer artists, including a recent favorite, Kaitlyn Butts.

While many of Nudie’s creations were covered in embroidery (often done by Manuel Cuevas) from head to toe, he also made more subdued garments, including the Hank Williams purple shirt above. Nudie’s ideas were not limited to clothing, he was also famous for his “Nudiemobiles.” The museum showcases Webb Pierce’s 1962 Pontiac Bonneville customized by Nudie alongside Elvis Presley’s 1960 Cadillac that was customized by another Californian, the legendary George Barris  with gold plating and paint that included crushed diamonds and fish scales to create its sparkling luster.

The majority of the museum does focus on country music’s history, but they know that the present is just as important as the past. Country music is always evolving and they have several items from the late 90s and today. I love seeing the personality of artists shine through their attire, and Jim Laudrdale’s love for martial arts was incorporated by Manual Cuevas in a ying-yang shirt. Shania Twain’s Barbie pink ensemble reminded me why I love so much of late 90s-early 2000s female country music. I must fully admit to be a mild Swifty, and loved seeing her bedazzled guitar, as well as the gorgeous purple dress that used 500 yards of tulle and over 3,000 crystals. And of course I was absolutely thrilled to see items belonging to Orville Peck on display!

As you know by now, Gram Parsons is one of my favorite musicians, and I’ve wanted to go to the Country Music Hall of Fame ever since I learned that it is the home for Parsons’ iconic Flying Burrito Brothers suit, worn on the cover of their first album, Gilded Palace of Sin, but some recent events spawned this specific trip.

After leaving the Byrds, Chris Hillman and Gram Parsons formed The Flying Burrito Brothers, continuing the genre blending that they had done on Sweetheart of the Rodeo. To solidify their country status, the band went to famed tailor Nudie Cohn to get outfitted in custom suits, and each member created something unique to them. Parsons crossed drugs with religion resulting in a white suit with pot leaves, pills, and a giant red cross. Hillman went for an eclectic mix including a sun, peacocks, and Poseidon. Pedal steel player Sneaky Pete opted for a velvet pull over covered in dinosaurs. Bass guitarist Chris Ethridge’s was perhaps the most traditional, with beautiful roses across a white suit.

In 1969, after wearing the suits for their album cover and a handful of performances, someone broke into the station wagon belonging to Phil Kaufman, the road manager for the Burritos, and stole the suit belonging to Ethridge. The suit would go on a multi-country journey, crossing oceans, before being reunited with its brothers over 50 year later.

After being stolen, the suit was returned to Nudie’s, who would buy back pieces, but no one thought to reach out to Ethridge. There it sat on the rack until November of 1970. After making quite a splash at The Troubadour earlier that year, Elton John thought it was time for some iconic American duds, and went to Nudie’s where he purchased Ethridge’s suit.

John returned to the UK, and donned the suit for a performance on Top of the Pops in 1971, and again for the sleeve of the 45 rpm European release of “Rocket Man” the following year. Then it hung in John’s closet until he decided to auction it off in 1988 and it went off to a Scottish collector. But in 2022, the collector decided to part with it and the suit was once again on the auction block. That is when Ethridge’s daughter, Necia Ethridge found it.

A lawyer, some phone calls, and an undisclosed amount of money later, the suit was in Necia’s hands. In the meantime, the Country Music Hall of Fame had put together Western Edge, an exhibit dedicated to California’s influence on country music, specifically the development of the country-rock sub genre. The exhibit spotlighted the Burritos’ influence and added Hillman’s and Sneaky Pete’s suits alongside Parsons’. It was perfect timing, and Necia loaned the suit to the museum, happily reuniting the suits once again. I simply could not pass up the chance to see these suits together in person, and it was most certainly the highlight of our trip.

In addition to the Burrito suits, there are numerous musical instruments that laid down some of the most iconic tracks of the 60s and 70s alongside stunning pieces of clothing. Prior to joining The Byrds or forming the Flying Burrito Brothers, Gram Parsons was part of The International Submarine Band, and had an appropriately themed Nudie suit made, which was a bonus to see. Clarence White of The Byrds is honored with his Fender Telecaster and blue leather Nudie suit on display. White was hit and killed by drunk driver while unloading his car in 1973. It is at his service that Parsons made his notorious pact to be “burned in the desert.” Bernie Leadon, of the Burritos and The Eagles, has his Telecaster on display as well, this one was used with the Burritos and on “Take it Easy.” While Michael Nesmith is mostly remembered for being a member of The Monkees, he had a country career as well, and his fabulous Nudie suit, worn for the bizarre NBC special 33 1/3 Revolutions per Monkee, among other occasions, is featured.

Of course the country-rock movement of Southern California wasn’t just made up of men, plenty of women had their place, including Rose Maddox, whose amazing ensemble by Nathan Turk is displayed, and a sparkling sequin vest made by Nudie and worn by Rosie Flores, Linda Ronstadt, and Emmylou Harris. Harris became one of the biggest country music stars of the 1970s and 80s, but got her start thanks to Hillman and Parsons. After departing from the Burritos, Parsons went solo, and expressed wanting a female singer to join him on some songs. Hillman recommended Harris, and she joined Parsons for recording and tour. A darling dusty pink ensemble caught my eye, as it was both cute and seemed out of place for the time period that the exhibit focused on. When I looked at the outfit’s sign it explained it was originally made by Nudie for Gail Davis for the 1950s TV show Annie Oakley, but was never picked up. It sat on the rack until Harris purchased it in the 70s and wore it with Parsons and during her solo career.

Western Edge closes September 1 of this year. But you can visit the Country Music Hall of Fame year round at 222 Rep. John Lewis Way South, in Nashville. Visit their website for the latest on current and upcoming exhibits. Burrito fans will want to get to the museum before it closes! Parsons’ suit is regularly on display at the Country Music Hall of Fame, on loan from Manuel Cuevas, however Sneaky Pete’s velvet number normally resides at the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, and Hillman’s blazing sun suit belongs to the Autry Museum of the West, although in all of my visits, I never once saw it on display, and I imagine Ethridge’s daughter will keep her father’s rose embroidered suit close to her.

Sources
Browne, David. “The Bonkers Tale of the Stolen Flying Burrito Brothers Suit – And How it was Finally Found.” Rolling Stone, 20 July 2023.
Feeser, Roman. “A long-lost piece of country music history is found.” CBS News, 2 December 2023.
“Missing Suit Found: The Flying Burrito Brothers’ Four Iconic Suits Reunited For The First Time In More Than 50 Years At The Country Music Hall of Fame And Museum” Country Music Hall of Fame, 21 July 2023.