Paul Revere Was Here

Earlier I wrote about the LA Conservancy’s campaign on African-American architect Paul Revere Williams, Paul Revere Was Here, and the variety of panels they are offering to celebrate the amazing work of Williams. One of the offerings is a virtual tour of places that were a part of Williams’ life in and around LA. The virtual tour also includes a guidebook for those in or visiting Southern California to follow Williams’ trail which weaves in and out of Los Angeles and the nearby areas. Recently Patrick and I set out to find some of the locations in the guide and marvel at the incredible and versatile work of Paul Revere Williams.

First Home – 1271 W 35th Street, Los Angeles

This humble home is not one of Williams’ creations, but in fact the home he purchased with his wife, Della. Near South Central Avenue, it is located in what was a predominately Black neighborhood, as the homes were free from the racist covenants of the period. Williams called this place home for 30 years before designing and constructing his family a new home.

A light brown California Craftsman house sits behind a tree.

28th Street Apartments, formerly YMCA – 1006 E 28th Street, Los Angeles

Designed during the early part of Williams’ career in 1926, this YMCA was nicknamed the “Colored Y” as it catered to the Black community of Los Angeles, and included a pool, which proved vital to the community, as LA’s municipal pools were segregated until 1931. Despite segregation, funding came from Black and white Angelenos alike. In addition to designing the property, Williams was also a member. In 2012 it underwent a renovation and was converted into apartments with units for low income and those transitioning from homelessness.

A four story Spanish Colonial Revival building. An etched sign above the doors reads "Young Mens Christian Association." Above the doors, one reads "Mens Entrance" the other says "Boys Entrance"

The YMCA at an angle, a metal sign off to the side reads "YMCA Cultural Heritage Board Monument No. 851"

A prime example of creative repurpose, it is a LA Historic-Cultural Monument, and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In 2013 it received the Conservation Preservation Award.

Beverly Hills Hotel – 9641 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles

While the Beverly Hills Hotel has been part of the Southern California landscape since 1912, it received a glamorous renovation in 1941 thanks to Williams, becoming the landmark we know today. The iconic pink and green color scheme and trademark script is the work of Williams, and when it comes to that script, it is in fact Williams’ own handwriting!

Sign for the Beverly Hills Hotel, green with a script reading "The Beverly Hills Hotel Entrance" Lush banana leaves and palms behind.

Myself standing in front of the Beverly Hills Hotel holding a sign that reads "#PaulRevereWasHere"

The pink and green Beverly Hills Hotel sits behind a plethora of tall palm trees.

The darker side to this elite hot spot is that while Williams was hired to revamp the hotel, he was not allowed to stay or dine there, and wasn’t even waited on unless with the white owners. Recently Williams’ work was honored at the hotel, with a suite named after him.

Legacy Plaza, formerly Golden State Mutual Life Insurance Company Building – 1999 W Adams Boulevard, Los Angeles

Founded in 1922, and one of the first west coast life insurance companies to offer life insurance to the Black community, Golden State Mutual expanded and by the late 1940s they were in need of a new office. Williams designed this for the 300 employees of the company, and it also featured a 150 person cafeteria and 400 seat auditorium.

A simple cream building stands tall, a silver overhang features letters that spell out "Golden State Mutual Life"

A simple cream building stands tall, a silver overhang features letters that spell out "Golden State Mutual Life"

The location is also a LA Historic-Cultural Monument as well as on the National Register of Historic Places, serving as a prime example of the late-Moderne period.

Second Home – 1690 S Victoria Avenue, Los Angeles

In 1948 the unfair covenants that kept people of color and Jews out of certain areas were deemed unconstitutional by the Supreme Court, and in 1951 Williams moved his family into a home of his own design in the luxurious Lafayette Square neighborhood. Williams also designed the furniture.

A mid-century modern home peeks out over a covered chain link fence.

A Los Angeles Historic-Cultural Monument, it went on the market in 2017, and, as you can clearly see, it is currently undergoing a restoration. This is perhaps my favorite building on the tour.

Founder’s Church of Religious Science – 328 W 6th Street, Los Angeles

Williams designed various churches, regardless of denomination, including this domed mid-century modern church for the Founder’s Church of Religious Science. Growing in numbers to over 100,000 members, the Church of Religious Science asked Williams to design a church to house their flock, and he created his unique piece with breeze blocks featuring crosses, and unique partitions and railings in 1960.

A white circular building sits behind breeze blocks with cut outs of a cross in the middle. Green letters along the top of the building read "Church of Religious Science"

A white circular building sits behind breeze blocks with cut outs of a cross in the middle. Green letters are mounted along the staircase reading "Founders's Church Religious Science"

The church is both a LA Historic-Cultural Monument and on the National Register of Historic Places.

First African Methodist Episcopal Church – 2270 S Harvard Boulevard, Los Angeles

Williams had been involved with the First African Methodist Episcopal Church for sometime and served on the Board of Trustees when he was asked to design a new church, coming up with this mid-century modern gem in 1965. It seats 5,000 and features a community youth center. Both the cornerstone and Board of Trustees plaque on site feature his name.

Myself in front of a pale yellow church with zig-zag roof that juts out over the doors, the underside painted turquoise. The sign reads "First AME Church" holding a sign that reads "#PaulRevereWasHere"

A pale yellow church with zig-zag roof that juts out over the doors, the underside painted turquoise. The sign reads "First AME Church"

A mural of an angel over a zig-zag overhang for a door.

A pale yellow church with zig-zag roof that juts out over the doors, the underside painted turquoise. The sign reads "First AME Church"

I absolutely love the zig-zag roof with the contrasting turquoise painted underneath. In 1980 Williams passed away, and his funeral was held here.

As mentioned we didn’t make it to all of the places on the list, which also include places from Williams’ childhood, as well as works by architects he influenced, showcasing his legacy and impact. The LA Conservancy has two more dates available for this unique virtual tour, tomorrow and May 26, then the driving tour can be done at your convenience! The tour serves as a nice, safe outing, we barely walked by anyone when snapping these photos, but if you’re just driving by to take a look at the buildings there isn’t even a need to get out of your car. To learn more, including purchasing tickets, click here!

Sources
Los Angeles Conservancy & National Organization of Minority Architects – Southern California Chapter. Paul Revere was Here: On the Trail of L.A.’s Legendary Architect Paul R. Williams.
Plaques on site at various locations.

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