A Night at Holbrook’s Kitschy Wigwam Village

Most of our journey to Arizona took us through the northern part of the state, which is the area that Route 66 cuts through, and no trip to Arizona along Route 66 would be complete without staying at the iconic Wigwam Village.

The office for the Wigwam Motel, a flat roof building painted white and trimmed in red. Classic cars sit out front. Black text reads "Wigwam Motel Have You Slept in a Wigwam Lately?"

A pale blue Studebaker sits out front of the office, and in the background tipi cabins.

Myself, standing in front of one of the "cabins" which is a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag horizontally across the middle. I'm wearing a black peasant top with a tipi brooch reflective of the ones at the motel, and a full red skirt with silver and black trim.

A billboard reads "Sleep in a Wigwam" in the distance green neon reading "Wigwam Motel" is visible against the sunset.

Myself, standing in front of one of the "cabins" which is a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag horizontally across the middle. I'm wearing a black peasant top with a tipi brooch reflective of the ones at the motel, and a full red skirt with silver and black trim.

Back in 1938, Chester E. Lewis was driving through Cave City, Kentucky when he first spied a cluster of tipis, it was the Wigwam Village, designed and built by Frank Redford. Lewis returned to his hometown of Holbrook, Arizona and decided to build a Wigwam Village of his own. Lewis purchased the plans from Redford, who had patented the design for his unique motel, and in May of 1950 Wigwam Village #6 began welcoming Route 66 travelers.

An early 1950s blue Chevy sits in front of some of the tipis. Clouds roll in over a blue sky as the sun rises.

A large white sign sits above the office, it reads "Wigwam Motel" in green neon letters.

The reason for the “#6” is that it was the sixth of seven Wigwam Villages that were built across the United States. Holbrook’s Wigwam Village also featured a gas station, but when Interstate 40 bypassed Route 66 and the semi-circle of concrete tipis, Lewis sold the business. It remained a gas station, but the tipis were empty. Lewis passed away in 1986, but his work would not be forgotten. In 1988 his widow and grown grandchild re-purchased the property, and reopened it as a motel. The same year the Cave City Wigwam Village was given historic status when it was added to the National Register of Historic Places. In 2002 Holbrook’s Wigwam Village #6 also joined the list.

One of the "cabins" a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag across the middle.

The Wigwam Village from across the street. A semi-circle of tipis around a flat roofed middle office in the middle. Classic cars are parked out front.

Myself, standing in front of one of the "cabins" which is a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag horizontally across the middle. I'm wearing a black peasant top with a tipi brooch reflective of the ones at the motel, and a full red skirt with silver and black trim.

Myself, standing in front of one of the "cabins" which is a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag horizontally across the middle. I'm wearing a black peasant top with a tipi brooch reflective of the ones at the motel, and a full red skirt with silver and black trim.

Several of the "cabins" against a sunrise, with some clouds, all "cabins" are concrete tipis, several cars, including classic cars, are parked out front.

The window of the tipis, which is a diamond shape and painted in a geometric red design.

Myself, standing in front of one of the "cabins" which is a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag horizontally across the middle. I'm wearing a black peasant top with a tipi brooch reflective of the ones at the motel, and a full red skirt with silver and black trim.

The office for the Wigwam Motel, a flat roof building painted white and trimmed in red. Classic cars sit out front. Black text reads "Wigwam Motel Have You Slept in a Wigwam Lately?"

Our key for room 16 is in the door, a red key fob reading "Wigwam Village #6 Have You Slept In a Wigwam Lately 16"

Myself, standing in front of one of the "cabins" which is a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag horizontally across the middle. I'm wearing a black peasant top with a tipi brooch reflective of the ones at the motel, and a full red skirt with silver and black trim.

The inside of our tipi, slanted white walls, a red, white, and black Native American style blanket sits on the bed. Tan and red tile floor.

Close-up of my brooch, which is made of wood, and is a pale shade of tan, it features a red zig-zag across the middle. In the distance, just out of focus is one of the tipi cabins.

A neon sign, the top portion is red and reads "Vacancy" in white neon, the lower part is black, with yellow letters spelling "Office" with red neon over the top.

Myself, standing in front of one of the "cabins" which is a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag horizontally across the middle. I'm wearing a black peasant top with a tipi brooch reflective of the ones at the motel, and a full red skirt with silver and black trim.

A 1940s car is parked in front of one of the tipis. The tipi is white with a red zig-zag across the middle.

Myself, standing in front of one of the "cabins" which is a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag horizontally across the middle. I'm wearing a black peasant top with a tipi brooch reflective of the ones at the motel, and a full red skirt with silver and black trim.

Sunrise at the Wigwam, the sun peeks from behind clouds and between two tipi "cabins" in the foreground, the front fender from an Oldsmobile Holiday juts out, chrome script reading "Holiday"

Myself, standing in front of one of the "cabins" which is a concrete tipi, painted white with a red zig-zag horizontally across the middle. I'm wearing a black peasant top with a tipi brooch reflective of the ones at the motel, and a full red skirt with silver and black trim.

This is the second of three remaining Wigwam Villages that I’ve stayed at, the first of which was the last one built, in Rialto, California. You can read about that stay here. The Rialto location gained the same status as its siblings in 2012. So now I just have to make it to the one in Cave City, Kentucky!

As a fan of both classic roadside of the mid-20th century, and true western history, it would be disingenuous of me to not talk about the cultural issue around the Wigwam Villages, because in many ways the Wigwam Villages epitomize cultural appropriation. First, the word “wigwam” and “tipi” are not interchangeable. Wigwams are domed dwellings. Second, tipis were never used by any of the native tribes in any of the areas where there are remaining Wigwam Villages, and some in those areas are not fond of them, such as David “Thundering Eagle” Fallis, Principal Chief of the Southern Cherokee Nation of Kentucky. Fallis once said “Though the Southern Cherokee Nation of Kentucky would be extremely pleased for anything that brings attention to the history and ongoing plight of Native Americans everywhere, we do not welcome such things as ‘Wigwam Village.’ It is an absolute absurdity to portray Native Americans of this area as ‘wigwam’ dwellers.” Meanwhile, Helen Danser, chair of the Kentucky Native American Commission and member of the Native American Intertribal Alliance in Kentucky said “I’m not opposed to [the Wigwam Village] being there if it’s done in an appropriate manner because it would be a wonderful teaching tool.” And I agree. The follies of the past must become teaching tools for the present and the future. So I beg of you, if you do stay at one of the remaining Wigwams and want to Instagram or write about your experience, take a moment to acknowledge the issues around it. It is important to keep both the history of the first people of America alive, along with unique roadside Americana.

Sources
Danaparamita, Aria, “‘Save Wigwam Village’: On the Cross-Cultural Communication.” National Trust for Historic Preservation, 17 July 2013. Accessed 16 September 2019.
History. Wigwam Motel. Accessed 16 September 2019.
National Register Database and Research. National Park Service. Accessed 16 September 2019.

Outfit
Peasant Top: Pinup Girl Clothing
Tipi Brooch: Match Accessories
Patio Skirt: ???
Shoes: Olvera Street, Los Angeles, California

Leave a Comment!

2 comments on “A Night at Holbrook’s Kitschy Wigwam Village”